Yates Conwill Vineyard Chardonnay

“The 2021 Chardonnay Yates Conwill Vineyard is vividly fresh with a bouquet that reminds me of childhood days picking apples each Fall—masses of ripe orchard fruits, hints of chamomile and vanilla bean fill the senses. It’s luxuriously round and soothing, with a cascade of sweet spices flowing across a steam of mineral-driven acidity. This leaves a lovely inner tension through the finish, gently tannic yet remarkably fresh. The 2021 tapers off long with a minty herbal tinge and suggestions of ginger-spiked pear that linger on. Simply stunning. The Yates Conwill refined in 33% new 500-liter barrels for 14 months.” ~Eric Guido, Vinous, May 2024 Drinking Window: 2025 - 2032

Aromatics are all Jura based with honeysuckle, lemon pith, low-tied and Asian pear. Entry is pure glycerol and mouth coating, leading you to believe that the wine will be big and cloying. Surprise as the high level of acidity causes a juxtaposition to occur in the mouth and brain throwing the drinker for a fun flip. Flavors are more toward a fresh cut alfalfa while strolling along a trout stream, or an Oregon Coast at low-tide with a warmed limestone bow of citrus. Finish is long and continues flipping between boldness and shyness with a massive umami finish.

2021 YATES CONWILL CHARDONNAY : Aromatics are honeysuckle, lemon pith, oyster nectar and Nashi. Entry is pure glycerol and mouth coating, leading you to believe that the wine will be big and cloying. Big surprise as the high level of acidity causes topsy-turviness to occur in the mouth and brain throwing the drinker for a fun loop. Flavors are more toward a fresh cut fruit served while fishing along a forested trout stream, or a morning Oregon Coast low-tide with a squeeze of lemon followed by a range of citrus fruit served out of a warmed limestone bowl. Finish is long and continues flipping back and forth between boldness and shyness. Not yet reviewed because I just bottled it in September! But I would highly recommend buying it up before the scores are released in April of 2024. 72 cases produced

2020 YATES CONWILL CHARDONNAY : Aromatics are all Jura based with honeysuckle, lemon pith, low-tied and Asian pear. Entry is pure glycerol and mouth coating, leading you to believe that the wine will be big and cloying. Surprise as the high level of acidity causes a juxtaposition to occur in the mouth and brain throwing the drinker for a fun flip. Flavors are more toward a fresh cut alfalfa while strolling along a trout stream, or an Oregon Coast at low-tide with a warmed limestone bow of citrus. Finish is long and continues flipping between boldness and shyness with a massive umami finish.

2019 YATES CONWILL CHARDONNAY : Notes of Nashi blossom, Bosc pear, intense green candy apple, fresh pineapple, and slate, with a lean, yet enveloping finish. Texturally, the long lingering finish provides waves of creamy meringue, Sweet tarts, burnt sugar, creme brûlée, custard, than back to lime tarts, lemon zest, and blood orange. Nice acidity. Elegance triumphs over ponderousness!

WINEMAKER’S NOTES:

Since the 2010 vintage I have been using the pre-oxidative process for my Chardonnays where after a hard press resulting in many solids, the juice rests in an open-top stainless-steel fermentation vessel with a bug screen for six to ten days. Over this time period the juice turns from clear, to yellow, to dark brown. When the juice is completely oxidized, I drain the tank into 100 percent new French oak barrels where fermentation spontaneously starts over a six to eight-week period. At this point, my Pinot noir fermentations are complete and I need those new French oak barrels for Pinot noir. I then rack out most of the vigorously fermenting Chardonnay into Neutral French Oak puncheons. Some of these New French Oak barrels are topped with the Chardonnay, ergo remaining in the New French oak. All barrels are then topped up and left undisturbed for between 18 and 22 months. Once malolactic has finished, usually within six to nine months, SO2 is added. No additions, other than SO2, are made in the press nor along the way.

A most unusual year, mostly due to the incredible heat we experienced, breaking not only all heat records for Oregon, but also for Canada. What most people do not realize is that the Pinot noir plan actually shuts down when temperatures are above the mid-nineties, making the plant more or less dormant. This extends the length of the “ripening” since for the week-long heat wave, the plants were in suspended animation. After the heat “dome” (currently the word du jour for weather related heat incidents) passed, we experienced a beautiful summer and fall. This resulted in amazing raw materials which were quite easy to turn into phenomenal wines. But do not just take my word for it:

2021 vintage overview from Decanter, a British publication which now has someone actually here, boots on soil, unlike any other wine publication.

“The resulting wines are brilliant. They offer great concentration, wonderful lift and freshness and such fine tannins… the top producers have made wonderfully collectable wines that will age 15 to 20 years. A five-star vintage for the Willamette Valley’ The 2021 growing season was memorable, most notably for the heat dome the region experienced in late June when temperatures reached up to 47.5°C (117.5°F). That heat spike set new records by 3°C to 6°C (5°F to 10°F) across the Pacific Northwest.”

The Yates Conwill Vineyard Chardonnay is once again exceptional. I believe it is all due to the site as this is the only site I am aware of where not only are the vines partially shaded, but also are on undulating slopes with the plants experiencing every exposure. This helps to retain acidity and also allow for super ripe flavors to evolve on the exposed sections. We harvest all of the Chardonnay at the same time which results in no additions needed. I continued to utilize the “Black Chardonnay” method of fermentation after a foot stop and overnight pressing regime. The Chardonnay then rests in barrel without any intrusion or movement for close to two years before being bottled. If you enjoy White Burgundy or Chablis, this is the wine for you. If you love the likes of Rombauer, this is not the wine for you. If you would like any additional information on this technique or an in-depth review of what Oregon Chardonnays evolve into over ten, twenty or more years, let me know and I will send you the links.