This vintage was matured in two-thirds new French oak. Ample, yet subtle flavors of yellow, red and black stone-fruit on the nose; think cherry, plum, and even dates aromatically. These aromas are interlaced with a dusting of fine cocoa powder over freshly mown alfalfa. An unusual, yet intriguing nose. Entry is invigorating with a nice dose of sweet acidity; think about the juice from a lemon, blood orange, or kumquat, over lime juice. The palate weight leans toward the lighter end of the spectrum with crisp acidity, tiny focused, talc-like tannins, combined with lively yellow cherries followed by a lingering cranberry + kumquat sorbet that forms the energizing long finish. This is an acid-driven wine, much like your better red Burgundies. Finish is further confounding offering freshly turned forest floor aromas combined with a waft of Chanterelle and Lobster mushrooms simmered with a nice dose of cognac. A definitively food-friendly wine. If you are into Burgundy now, try this without any fear to be an equal, if not a superior replacement.

2021 Wind Hill Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley AVA

Ripening over a total of 133 days, this site was picked on October 8th, a full three weeks after my warmer sites. Grape clusters were in fine shape with fully ripened seeds and lignified stems so a “whole cluster” fermentation was made with one lot of the fruit and blended into this wine.

Fermentation took off on day two due to native yeasts and continued for over three weeks. Longer, slower and cooler fermentations seem to result in subtler, yet complex wines which tend to age quite well. After going through primary and secondary fermentation without the introduction of any yeasts, enzymes, adjuncts or temperature adjustments, the wine rested in tank for six days prior to going to barrel perfectly clean.

I just conducted a decade-long vertical tasting of my Wind Hill Vineyard Pinots with several of my supporting restaurateurs in Texas, all blind from the 2004 vintage forward. So delightful to have several Somm’s flowery prose flow forth involving this wine with numerous palates comparing this wine to Chambolle-Musigny due to its delicate restraint. I was honored. Yes, this site being old, and in the Foothills of the Coast Range, ripens grapes slowly and late in the season, resulting in nuanced yet juxtaposing various flavor complexities combined with lively acidity.

Notes from the Texas Somm tasting:

Initial aromas of dusty plums, alfalfa and Chanterelles served on a warm slab of slate. As the exposure to oxygen awakens the wine, the perception evolves into sliced black plums, mashed raspberries and torn basil leaves with a quick grind of black peppercorns. Entry is bright with ample acidity more in the lemon realm than lime, no bitterness here. Enveloping mouthfeel shows fine talc-like tannins followed by the popping of flavors starting with salted raspberry sorbet and finishing with a tartness of cherries, plums and roasted hazelnuts. Amazing complexity of intermingled flavors and aromas as it slowly opens up.

$75 per bottle